Bambu filament winder / spooler remixed

UPDATE: Thank you for taking a look at this project. I still use mine - but there is now a more active implementation of this modular idea that you would probably be better off printing. Please see: https://www.printables.com/@Damian27/collections/1304611?lang=pl This is a remix of Miklos Kiszely's amazing spool winder. I copied the geometry but created a new frame and carriage. Please note that my files only contain the parts that I changed. You can find the rest of the parts and fantastic instructions in the original model. https://www.printables.com/model/407688-bambu-lab-p1-x1-x1c-x1cc-filament-spool-switcher-w I wanted to work on a few things. 1 - I thought the idler gear could use a bearing on both sides instead of just one. 2 - I wanted to print it in parts instead of one monolithic frame. 3 - I wanted the bearings to be trapped - mine kept popping out. 4 - I wanted the worm gear to have 3 bearings to keep it from popping off of the spur gear. 5 - I wanted the sled to be trapped in place - mine had to be held down while winding. 6 - I wanted to increase the size of the hex part of the main shaft for strength. 7 - I wanted the base plate to have a couple of tabs to make it easy to clamp to a table edge. the screw holes are all designed for ruthex threaded inserts. M4 everywhere but the carriage, which is M3. The shafts should be printed vertically out of something suitably strong. The flat pieces are all large, so you need to use something that won't lift. PLA might work, but I used PA-CF and PC-CF because I had some around. The bearing holes are sized so that they might be a tad big. They are tight with some materials and loose with others. If there's interest I can redo the frame pieces with slightly smaller bearing holes. If they are a smidge too large you can also just shim with pieces of paper to make them tight. Because the carriage is now trapped, the order of putting it together changes. Build the carriage first, then bolt it down. Then, put on the main bearing block, get all the gears in place, insert the shafts, and then put the secondary bearing block on. That seems to be the easiest way. I also had to shorten the filament guide so that it doesn't interfere with the new bearing blocks that hold down the sled. You don't need to use any spacers on the two large gears. They are trapped between the bearings. You can print everything without supports. Large flat pieces are flat side down, obviously. Shafts should be printed vertically with a brim. UPDATE: I have added four files with tighter holes for the bearings. They are 22.2mm instead of 22.4mm. I also added a fancy bearing test block so that you can see what will work for you and your filament/settings. UPDATE: At the request of a couple folks I have added the Fusion 360 archive file. Fair Warning: This project was done as a Fusion 360 learning project. I am maybe 10% proficient with this software. So - things are a bit of a mess, not always in the right hierarchy or done in the right order. So - good luck! It's AS IS. Most of the inserts are ruthex M4x8.1. Most of the M4 screws are M4 x 20. 15mm or maybe even 10mm would also work. The two screws that connect the main and secondary bearing block are a little longer; M4 x 25 or 30mm would work. The smaller inserts in the sled are ruthex M3x5.7. Those screws need to be pretty short. I think they were M3x8mm or so. Inserts are here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K1BVGN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Good luck!