Battle Droid B1 Kit Card - @Willi’s work edit by iJoe"

Why?! I’m calling this model a remix because Willi’s original really inspired me, but at this point I’ve changed about 80% of it. My first intention was just to fix the knees and elbows since they didn’t have a full range of motion. Also, I wanted to print it smaller than recommended — because, honestly, I want a mini B1 droid army without taking over the entire dining table :v With that in mind, I started tweaking and improving the joints that felt limited. Like I said, I began with the knees and elbows but quickly moved on to redesign the shoulders with a different type of assembly, then the ankles, pelvis, and neck. I also redesigned the spine piece to be shorter, adding two connection points — one to the pelvis and another to the chest — which improves overall movement. With the spine changes, I ended up redesigning how the pelvis, chest, and backpack connect. Now you can have droids with backpacks, without backpacks, or a backpack-less version with an antenna. Thanks to all these changes, it’s now possible to do the iconic crouch pose of the droids before they’re activated for battle — something that wasn’t possible before. Looking ahead, I’m planning to revisit the accessories that can be equipped, like the classic binoculars and blaster. I’m also considering revising the ankles, which I’m not 100% happy with yet, and maybe adding an extra cut on the foot to allow for better flexion. Also, I want to give a shoutout to the amazing original ideas Willi applied, especially in the calves, forearms with the hands, and the pieces for the face and back of the head. Those details are truly his work and really make the model stand out. How to assemble: Overall, the model is pretty straightforward to assemble without detailed instructions, but here are a few steps and tips to help everything go smoothly. First, when printing, a strong first layer adhesion is crucial since the parts are very small. Even though the kitcar frame helps stabilize everything, it’s still a good idea to use some glue stick on the bed to improve adhesion — though with today’s printers, this might be less necessary. Second, I recommend using OrcaSlicer or similar slicers with variable layer height. This helps critical details come out better by adjusting the layer thickness where needed. The model actually needs very few supports. I set the max overhang angle to 15°, which only adds supports to the backpack peg and one inside the pelvis. Once the print is successful, start assembling with the chest by attaching the shoulders and side rods. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Here’s the only spot where you’ll need glue: the shoulder-to-arm joint. The model is designed to snap together everywhere else, but for this joint, I strongly recommend super glue or something like “kolaloka.” 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Next, assemble the pelvis. You need to slide the piece with 3 balls inside the pelvis part. Then attach the legs on the sides, and insert the spine through the top hole. The spine piece has a protruding corner that should face forward. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Those are the parts I think might need the most explanation. Besides that, it’s mostly just snapping the forearms onto the arms, attaching the feet to the shins, then the shins to the thighs, putting the head on the neck, and the neck onto the chest. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Finally, you can choose whether you want your droid with or without the backpack. In either case, you can add the antenna to the backpack or use the antenna on the shoulder. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media