CREALITY K1 | K1C | K1SE - LID RISER V3 [FRAME EXTENSION KIT]

LID RISER V3 [FRAME EXTENSION KIT] | Vents | Filament Sensor | LED Strip | Hinges | Embedded LID *If you have any issues with printing or assembly, feel free to message me, and I'll do my best to assist you 😉. *Because of the seam inside the walls, the internal space is reduced. To clean it up, use scissors or a similar tool. Simply insert the scissors into the wall and go back and forth a few times until it feels cleaner and there’s no more resistance. This will ensure the vents will slide. *If it's difficult to slide the pieces together, use a metal file to clean the rails, especially on the wall pieces. This minor adjustment can make a big difference. The fit is meant to be snug, so the pieces aren't loose. I had to do this with some of my pieces. Some fit perfectly, while others were tight, likely due to the printing process. Just file the rails a few times, and they should fit perfectly. /////FOR THE K1SE The K1SE frame does not include the 4 threaded holes in the corners, so the riser cannot be mounted in the usual way. Dennis Mckinney created this solution, which I’m sharing here. https://www.printables.com/model/1379103-creality-k1-se-lid-riser-retainer-clip ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________ /////LINKS FOR THE HARDWARE USED IN ALL MY PROJECTS * affiliate links INSERTS M3 x 4mm (L) x 5mm (D): https://amzn.to/3EovAVw HEX SOCKET CAP M3 6mm-30mm (STAINLESS): https://amzn.to/4imGAQW HEX SOCKET CAP M3 6-20mm (BLACK): https://amzn.to/3R7wjx4 FLAT HEAD SOCKET CAP M3 4mm-12mm (STAINLESS): https://amzn.to/3G3Z1wr FLAT HEAD SOCKET CAP M3 8mm-25mm (BLACK): https://amzn.to/43JeThP FLAT HEAD SOCKET CAP M3 6mm-16mm (BLACK): https://amzn.to/4kRgQNP LED STRIP - COB LED Strip Lights Daylight 24V: https://amzn.to/44M0iTd LED CONNECTOR - JST-XH 2.54mm 1S 2 Pin Balance Plug: https://amzn.to/3YrGG2C ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ UPDATE 0.9 15/07/2025 - GUIDE UPDATED WITH THE BOM LIST FOR CFS MOUNT V1 AND V2 VERSIONS UPDATE 0.8 26/06/2025 - NEW TEST PARTS FOLDER These parts were created to test the most critical fit between components before printing the full model. Start by printing just two test pieces and check if they snap together correctly. Confirm key dimensions and adjust your slicer scaling if material shrinkage is affecting the fit. Once everything looks good, print the remaining test pieces to be sure your printer is dialled in. If the vents do not slide properly into the wall, even when the size is correct, there might be small bits of plastic left inside the channel from overhangs or bridges. To fix it, use a metal tool like a closed pair of scissors and run it through the slot from end to end. Keep doing this until the path is clean and the tool moves freely. That should restore smooth movement. UPDATE 0.7 09/06/2025 - NEW VENTS VERSION – CFS COMPATIBLE FOLDER - VENTS_VERSION - CFS COMPATIBLE FILE - [c]_x4_K1C_V3_VENTS_CFS_VERSION.STL This updated part was designed for users who have the CFS system installed on their K1, K1C, or K1SE. When the CFS is mounted, the printer loses about 5 mm of travel on the Y axis. That means even if the original vents part fits on the build plate in the slicer, it will fail during printing because of that shift. To fix this, I created a shorter version that stays within the usable print area. The original design had a wider side flange, which helped seal the riser more effectively. Since that width is no longer possible with the CFS in place, this new version keeps just enough material to maintain a proper seal for materials like ASA or ABS. [c]_x4_K1C_V3_VENTS_CFS_VERSION UPDATE 0.7 16/05/2025 - NEW BACK WALL with FILAMENT SENSOR INVERTED This version allows you to install the filament sensor upside down. The sensor is not directional, so it works the same way when inverted. With this configuration, the cable connector is positioned at the bottom, which means you can use a much shorter cable. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media /////PARTS LIST FOR PRINTING THE RISER WITH THE CFS MOUNT V1 EXCLUDED PARTS: LID BACK FRAME - [a]_x1_K1C_V3_FRAME_BACK.stl FRONT FRAME - [a]_x1_K1C_V3_FRAME_FRONT.stl BACK WALL- [b]_x1_K1C_V3_WALL_BACK.stl FRONT WALL - [b]_x1_K1C_V3_WALL_FRONT.stl 1x LEFT WALL CORNER - [b]_x4_K1C_V3_WALL_CORNER_L.stl RIGHT WALL CORNER - [b]_x1_K1C_V3_WALL_CORNER_R_PTFETUBE_HOLE.stl HINGES - [c]_x1_K1C_V3_LEFT_HINGE.stl - [c]_x1_K1C_V3_RIGHT_HINGE.stl HANDLE - [c]_x1_K1C_V3_HANDLE.stl LID CLOSER - [b]_x1_K1C_V3_LID_CLOSER.stl FILAMENT SENSOR SPACER - [b]_x4_K1C_V3_FILAMENT_SENSOR_3mm_SPACER.stl NEW PARTS TO PRINT: 2x SIDE FRAME – [a]_x2_K1C_V3_FRAME_SIDE.stl 1x SIDE WALL - b]_x2_K1C_V3_WALL_SIDE 1x RIGHT WALL CORNER - [b]_x3_K1C_V3_WALL_CORNER_R.stl 1x UPDATED BACK WALL – CFS_MOUNT_KIT FOLDER 1x UPDATE LEFT WALL CORNER – CFS_MOUNT_KIT FOLDER /////PARTS LIST FOR PRINTING THE RISER WITH THE CFS MOUNT V2 EXCLUDED PARTS: BACK WALL- [b]_x1_K1C_V3_WALL_BACK.stl 1x LEFT WALL CORNER - [b]_x4_K1C_V3_WALL_CORNER_L.stl RIGHT WALL CORNER - [b]_x1_K1C_V3_WALL_CORNER_R_PTFETUBE_HOLE.stl FILAMENT SENSOR SPACER - [b]_x4_K1C_V3_FILAMENT_SENSOR_3mm_SPACER.stl NEW PARTS TO PRINT: 1x UPDATED BACK WALL – CFS_MOUNT_KIT FOLDER 1x UPDATE LEFT WALL CORNER – CFS_MOUNT_KIT FOLDER 1x RIGHT WALL CORNER - [b]_x3_K1C_V3_WALL_CORNER_R.stl _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________ *INSTALLANTION INFO - FILAMENT SENSOR CABLE If you’re having trouble connecting the filament sensor because the cable is too short, start by removing the printer’s bottom cover and cutting the zip ties holding the cable in place. If it’s still too short, it’s likely glued inside the raceway. In that case, you’ll need to remove the entire cable cover and carefully free it from the superglue. UPDATE 0.6 30/01/2025 - New Chain Wall In this new version, the vents on the inside of the wall have been partially closed to eliminate the noise that occurs when the chain rubs against them during operation. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media UPDATE 0.5 19/12/2024 - New closed wall version UPDATE 0.4 | 22/11/2024 - Filament sensor wires To get more slack for the sensor wires, you just need to remove the bottom cover and cut the two (usually) zip ties holding the wires in place, and you’ll have enough slack. UPDATE 0.3 | 03/09/2024 - Material quantity by color [a] - Polymaker PolyLite ABS Galaxy Dark Grey - 128.39g [b] - Polymaker PolyLite ABS Black - 383.06g [c] - Polymaker PolyLite ABS Green - 83.1g UPDATE 0.2 | 14/08/24 Check this video for fine-tuning filament settings and dimensional accuracy: https://youtu.be/7BUJLbQUABY?si=EGsZtkVig8zLeMMX If the sensor cable is too short and you can't connect it to the sensor, you'll need to remove the bottom cover of the printer, and you’ll see some zip ties holding the cable in place. UPDATE 0.1 | 26|07|2024 - The project is complete 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Below is the list of updated files, including a new file. LIST OF UPDATED FILES: [b]_x1_K1C_V3_WALL_CORNER_R_PTFETUBE_HOLE [c]_x1_K1C_V3_HANDLE [c]_x1_K1C_V3_LEFT_HINGE [c]_x1_K1C_V3_RIGHT_HINGE [c]_x4_K1C_V3_VENTS NEW FILES: [b]_x4_K1C_V3_FILAMENT_SENSOR_3mm_SPACER *Apply these spacers with the filament sensor to distance it from the LEDs _____________________________________________________________________________________ NEW INSERTS The inserts have been updated. The 5mm inserts left marks on the frame's exterior, so please use the new 4mm inserts instead. Link to new inserts: https://amzn.to/42NE3e2 SLIDING For smooth sliding like in the video, use scissors or a metal object that fits inside the walls. Move it back and forth several times. This will clean up the internal overhangs that cause the slider to not move smoothly. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media RISER FEATURES: MOUNTING SYSTEM: The parts are secured together with bolts and inserts. The only glued part is the flap that closes the cut-out on the back of the LID. VENTILATION: It has 360° ventilation, the highest ventilation I have ever designed in a riser. EMBED LID: The LID is embedded in the frame, giving a cleaner look. Despite being embedded in the frame, the usable space inside the printer is the same as the V2 50mm [another of my projects]. HINGES: The hinges open 110° (allowing printing with the LID open) and have an inner flap that ensures alignment of the LID with the frame. HANDLE: It has a handle (press-fit, but I have a version with a fixing tab for the LID if needed in the future). LIGHTING UPGRADE: There is a predefined space for an LED strip. One of the inner corners has a fixation point for the wires if LEDs are installed. FILAMENT SENSOR REPOSITIONING: Fixation points on the back wall to place the filament sensor inside the riser. One of the side wall parts has a hole for the PTFE tube. CHAIN ADJUSTMENT: Mounting points on the back wall for the piece that allows adjusting the chain height. /////THINGS to ADD Front Chain Riser (12mm) - LINK ////ATTENTION Make sure the bolts aren't too long. They shouldn't go past the frame's thickness to avoid damaging any internal components. [ The bolts listed have been tested ] /////IMPORTANT Before starting the print of the riser, I recommend printing this tool https://www.printables.com/model/899470-xyz-accuracy-test-calibration-tool to test the dimensional accuracy of your printers. Use this tool https://www.printables.com/model/480907-shrinkage-calculator-dimensional-calibration-tool to determine the correct scale based on the filament shrinkage you’ll be using. The riser pieces were developed with very tight tolerances (0.2mm) to ensure proper alignment and functionality of the assembly, so it’s important to make sure everything is well-calibrated or that you understand what is needed for everything to work correctly. ///// ASSEMBLY GUIDE Scroll to the bottom of the download page to find the installation guide. /////All files are labeled with material/color and quantity [a] - ABS or similar material | Color 1 [b] - ABS or similar material | Color 2 [c] - ABS or similar material | Color 3 [ The vents [c] can be printed in a different material - PLA ] [ Do not print the hinges and the chain adjustment piece in PLA - use a more heat-resistant material ] x(number) - number of parts to print