Creality K1 Unibody Riser - Japanese Shrine Mod with Sliding Windows

Colours used: Siddament Black PETG https://siddament.com.au/products/black-petg Siddament Gold PETG https://siddament.com.au/products/metallic-gold-petg-hs Siddament Matte Beige PLA https://siddament.com.au/products/matte-beige-pla Siddament Translucent PETG https://siddament.com.au/products/transparent-petg-1-75mm-1kg Creality Grey Hyper PETG This riser mod is a classy way to improve the aura of your K1 printer, as well as adding the regular functions a regular riser mod provides. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media IN ADDITION to this, the main inspiration of this mod is the addition of sliding windows in the place where the ‘plates’ sit, to give you the option of venting or passing cables through the gap. Note: only one half of the window panels slide across. If you prefer a left-side sliding window you're welcome to flip the models. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media This gap is primarily used for venting, and comes with an optional Filament Runout Sensor Relocation mod which pairs perfectly with the sliding windows to allow you to pass a bowden tube through easily. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media The roof is connected with printable connector pegs which stack through the roof, the roof underlay, and the frame in order to create easily connectable and removeable pieces. Hardware K1 attachment: 4x M3x6 screws Frame assembly: 8x M3x8 8x M3 5x5 heat inserts 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Window plate assembly: Super glue (or equivalent) - Use this to glue your transparent window layer to the frame 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media There is also an optional Handle.stl for the sliding window which should also be superglued on. Then slide the side-tabs of the assembled windows into your frame before assembling the frame. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media (Optional) Frame corner - Filament Runout Sensor mod 2x PC4-M10 Pneumatic tube connectors (screw directly into the plastic) Spare bowden tubing Original runout sensor screws (2x M3x18 Countersunk) Note: DO NOT “split object” as the piece is not combined, only assembled due to bad geometry. It will print fine. This is mounted “back-to-front” with the cable connector pointing DOWN. You will need to release the cable from the zip ties underneath the printer to give it more length, or the cable will not reach. The cable is marked with a “Filament runout” label and it grouped with other cables. I recommend re-ziptying the other cables after freeing it. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Print settings Frame and window pieces must be printed in PETG (or equivalent heat resistant material) as the K1 chamber easily crests 40C, which will bend and deform PLA very quickly. Window plate pieces can be printed in transparent PETG / PCTG for a nice see-through effect, but do not necessarily need to be transparent filament to pass light through at only 2 layers height. Transparent filament will just make it incredibly clear if you turn off “rotate solid infill” so the layer lines all stack in the same direction. 0.2 layer height for best results Tree supports - Auto All files should be pre-oriented 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Optional Shrine Stairs cover for the screen. Use paint-on Perlin fuzzy skin for a nice stone effect.