Eye training glasses - pinhole glasses
by sbuerger · via Printables
| Format | STL |
| Category | Tools |
| License | CC BY-NC |
| Triangles | 109.5k |
| Uploaded | Feb 7, 2025 |
⬇ 1.8k downloads
❤ 233 likes
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Description
This is a special set of (glassless) glasses, intended to be used for training your eyes' ciliary muscles (these are the muscles that focus your eyes on different object distances) to avoid or even heal visual defects (lifestyle diseases) resulting from ciliary muscle weakening (caused by, for example, spending most of your worktime at a monitor). There's people who claim to have gained back 2 dpt and more of close focus just by the use of raster glasses - well, there's no scientific proof for a training effect, and I have no idea under which circumstances such a drastic effect may be expectable, but judge for yourself. As a side effect, the small holes' diaphragm function decreases any kind of ametropia - to a degree (most noticeable at close focus). Of course, there's a price to pay for this, as the glasses “swallow” most of the incoming light, so they are only usable in well-lit situations. I used Ericsko's great glasses frame model as a base for this model, and, in addition to the complete frame with “glasses”, I have added a solo version of the plain “glasses”. So, if you want to print the frame and “glasses” in different colors or materials, you can print just the “glasses” surfaces from this file set and the frame from Ericsko's and then glue in the “glasses”. Filament choice First of all - use a black filament in any case. Any other color would cause unwanted reflections. And no, it is not possible to use filament of another color and then varnish the print. You would not manage to properly varnish the holes' insides. Second, use a filament that is unproblematic about first layer adhesion and precise shape printing. This requirement points to PLA (although I have already had satisfying print results with PETG (see photos) when no black PLA was at hand - color just is the utmost important factor). Printing This is not an easy object to print, however, if you manage to produce a perfect first layer, the rest is a cake walk. The rasterized surfaces are 0.9 mm thick and are critical in respect of precision. Obviously, the as-perfect-as-possible circular shape of the holes is important for the glasses to work. So, for the first 0.9 mm of the print (or to print the solo “glasses”) I recommend the following settings (for a 0.4 mm nozzle size - obviously, things get much easier with a 0.25 mm nozzle): Layer height - first layer: 0.15 mm (or whatever your bed calibration allows as the smallest reliable value) Layer height - other layers: 0.05 - 0.1 mm Perimeters: 1 Infill: 100% Extrusion width: 0.4 mm (all) First layer speed: 12 mm/s Speed other layers: About 15 mm/s for perimeters and 30 mm/s for infill Acceleration control: Set very low values (depending on what is low for your printer) Enable ironing for all top surfaces For the other layers above 0.9 mm you can use just “normal” printing parameters (however, keep to the 100% infill value for the whole thing, including the temples). Of course, you may keep the above settings for the whole glasses object and manually increase printing speed (up to about 200%) after the first 0.9 mm are printed. Of course, you should instruct your slicer to avoid crossing walls/perimeters for all layers (otherwise you might get filament strings inside the holes which are quite impossible to remove). Post-printing After the print is finished, bend the glasses as desired using a hair dryer or hot water to heat up the plastic. Just take a little more care than I did not to overheat it, otherwise this will happen (does not affect operation, but doesn't look good either): 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Attach the temples by using two small cuts of 1.75 mm filament (glue or “weld”/melt the filament to the upper hinge parts of the temples only). Alternatively you can use two M2 x 8 mm or M2 x 10 mm screws. Inspect the holes closely for deformation and, if needed, rework deformed holes with a 1 mm drill. How to use Well, just put them on your nose and see what happens… ;) You will notice that with the “glasses”, your close-focus range “magically” increases. wearing the “glasses” is quite exhausting at the beginning since not only your ciliary muscles but also your eyes and head have to move in order to focus on objects. moving around with the “glasses” on causes much more muscular activity than just standing and watching around. On the first day, wear the “glasses” just for a few minutes, then increase the wearing time day by day. Of course, pinhole glasses are not a replacement for optical glasses, and are not to be mistaken as a serious therapy for any kind of ametropia. Do not wear them in situations in which sight obstacles can threaten your safety (like when driving a car, for example). Use them at your own risk and responsibility.
Originally published on Printables