GearHead Quest 3 Strap

This head strap for the Quest 3 is more comfortable than the elite strap. It also allows you to control the angle of the headset to better distribute load on your face. This is related to my Quest 2 head strap but shares no parts in common (the gears use a different thread). https://www.printables.com/model/62290-gearhead-quest-2-strap I do not yet have the instructional video complete for this strap. In the mean time, It may be helpful to view the video for the Quest 2 Strap. You will need some zip ties and the old top strap from a quest 2 or quest 3. Removing the top strap from the old cloth head strap is a one way thing, you can no longer use the old head strap. Alternatively, you can make a top strap from double sided Velcro, see the Quest 2 video for more info on that (around 11:30). I prefer the Quest 2 top strap or the double sided Velcro top strap over the Quest 3 top strap. The Quest 3 top strap will get the job done but I don't like how the elastic part of the strap feels. The Inner and Outer Hair Shields are optional. They are for people with long hair that are at risk of getting it jammed in the gears. The hair shields attach with zip ties. The Battery Bridge is optional. It attaches with zip ties. My first design for a battery mount was the “Outer Hair Shield with Battery Tray”. It works but the battery weight was too far back for me and the headset moved a lot when I looked to the side suddenly. The battery bridge moved the weight closer to my head and made it more comfortable for me. You can use sticky back Velcro, double sided tape, or zip ties to attach the external battery. Be sure to use a fast charge cable or it won't keep up the the Quest power draw. The Frame is too big for some small bed printers. I've included Split Frame L, Split Frame R, and Split Frame Center parts to help out the folks who are ballin on a budget. These three parts glue together to make a complete frame. Super glue works well with PLA. It also helps to sand the glue surfaces prior to gluing. I would also wrap the joint with the highest strength tape you have after you glue it. I haven't done a lot of testing on the split frame so please share your experience in the comments if you try it. Print 2 of the Screw Gears, 2 of the Transfer Gears, and 5 of the Screw Half-10. Print one of all the other parts (The Hair Shields, Battery Bridge, and Split Frame parts are optional). I used PLA+ for its greater toughness but regular PLA should work fine. 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layers, 2 walls, 5 bottom and top layers, 15% infill. Print slow enough to get good quality and hot enough to get good layer adhesion. No supports needed (the Frame and Screw Gear have modeled supports that break away after printing). All parts are modeled in the correct print orientation so you should not need to rotate anything. It will tell you the Gear Frame has print stability issues but don't believe it, it prints fine.