JC-Creality K1 Hinged Lid Riser

Updates 2023-07-26 - Adjusted z-Height of Betweeners, all level with floor now. 2023-07-20 - Rear Betweener Added! Introducing the JC K1 Lid Riser now with hinges! Keep your lid attached and stop having to find a place for it when you get into the printer. The JC K1 Lid riser system consists of 4 supports that screw to the top of the K1. This hinged version does not support magnet attachment like the non-hinged JC K1 riser does. Each part has been specifically designed and oriented on the plate for optimum strength and no support requirements! There are 2 kits provided as well. The upgrade kit will print all parts needed to go from OG JC K1 Riser to this new hinged version. If you are new to the system, the Full Kit includes all brackets as well as 3 hexagon Betweeners. - Upgrade kit part list: 1 x Hinged.RearRight.Bracket 1 x Hinged.Rear.Bracket 2 x UpperHinge 2 x Pin (print flat on bed, not vertical) - Full Kit part list: 1 x Hinged.RearRight.Bracket 1 x Hinged.Rear.Bracket 2 x UpperHinge 2 x Pin (print flat on bed, not vertical) 2 x Front.Bracket 3 x Betweeners Features: - Print full kit on 1 bed - NO SUPPORTS - Each part specifically designed for 3D printing - Easy on filament, full kit = 100g - Each bracket installed with m3x30mm - Fully switchable, customizable, and interchangeable Betweeners! See https://www.printables.com/model/520207-jc-creality-k1-lid-riser for Betweeners and additional info on the JC K1 Lid Riser system. INSTALLATION 1. Remove existing screws from top of K1 2. Attach new JC brackets, using m3x30mm screws to top of K1. (only rear if you already have JC K1 Riser) 3. Attach 2 UpperHinge to lid. They can be inserted at cable cutout at rear of lid and slid into place. 4. Align UpperHinge and lower bracket hinge holes. Use either printed pin, M2.5x40mm screw, or 2.5mm x 40mm rod, to push through holes. NOTES: - Print Pin laying flat on bed, if you print it vertical you will probably have a bad time. - Print Pin and UpperHinge solid. - If your pin isn't going in the hole do a quick route out with a 7/64" drill bit. This frequently needs done on UpperHinge. - There is more pressure than I'd like on the hinge pin when fully open. I've iterated on this issue a few times and have made it better. I've yet to have a hinge pin break, but be warned. Make sure you print Pin laying flat on bed and not vertical. If you print it vertical it puts stresses on the Pin parallel with the layer lines which is weak. If you print it laying flat the stresses are perpendicular to the layer lines which is stronger. It would be possible to use a m2.5x40mm screw in place of pin, but I don't have one. - Better hinge pins: get some https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W5PBHGR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details and cut them down to 40mm. The printed pins work but do cut into the hinge socket over time. 3mm metal rods work much better. If you have any issues or an idea for improvement LMK!