Print-In-Place Ratchet Driver

Optional Magnet: ( 5mm diameter, 2mm depth) 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Print Tips: - Print with PETG (Tested to work nicely) - The files are provided in the “wrong” orientation. Make sure to flip the model upside down in your slicer - A small amount of WD-40 makes the ratchet sound and feel a lot nicer (much less dry) - Best results with a smaller nozzle (0.2mm if possible) - Either use AMS for colored print, or set the first layer to be a different color - Check that your slicer hasn't fused your ratchets to the gear. If it has, try splitting into parts/objects 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media (If printing on a crappy printer, scale up the outer ratchet by around 1-3% (only X,Y) in the slicer. Don't scale over 5%. Mid-range printers should be able to print this as is.) Keep in mind that scaling adds slop to the mechanism. Troubleshooting: 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media This is a part that i printed on my ender 3 Parts stuck together: Use a blade to separate the ratchets 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Press on the center until the part clicks 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Insert an extension shaft into the hex slot, and rotate the part several dozen times until the ratcheting is smooth and consistent. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Cranking the driver too hard will cause the ratchets to buckle. This shouldn't be an issue with general use, however your milage may vary based on what PETG you use, along with print settings. I used both Prusament petg and Bambu petg. Both seem to hold up well. (Use the tool with 2 fingers, as using your entire arm for torque will cause it to break) 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Originally designed to remove a few screws in my boiler room which were blocked by some pipes. I've been developing the idea since.