TinyMiniMicro 10" Rack Mount

Background There are several 10" rack mounts for these TinyMiniMicro PC's, but none of them quite sat right with me. My goals for this were the following: Conform to the un-official 10" rack dimensions seen here (254mm x 44.45mm). PC Is centered in the mount. Have 2 keystone jacks. PC is held firmly enough that it cannot slide forward or backward easily. Support for various TinyMiniMicro PC's and look uniform (aside the from PC itself). Zip tie loop for cables coming from the keystone. I believe I have accomplished these goals with this design. Compatibility There are 4 different mounts. I have confirmed fitment of the following: Mount Name Verified machine compatibility HP Gen 1 HP Elitedesk G2 HP Gen 2 HP Elitedesk G3 and G6 Lenovo Lenovo M720q Dell Dell Optiplex 7050 Bill of Materials Item Qty Notes M3 Heatset insert (Voron standard - 5mm (diameter) x 4mm (length)) 4 M3 x 8mm Socket Head Cap Screws 4 M5 Flat Washer 2 M5 Nut (up to 4.2mm thick) 2 M5 Button Head Cap Screw 2 8mm for Dell and 12mm for HP and Lenovo…10mm might be long enough for HP and/or Lenovo. EVA Foam 2 (optional) I used 20mm x 20mm wide x 1mm thick. The Dell one can't go too much thicker, but the others can probably use thicker foam if desired. The machines stay pretty well without the foam, so IMO not critical. I'm sure there are other options out there, but I had this foam on hand. What to print 2 x Tension Blocks 1 x Face plate for your chosen machine 1 x Rear plate for your chosen machine I've been printing mine with the following settings in ABS. But i'm sure PETG could do similar. I would avoid PLA as it tends to deform when under pressure for a relatively small amount of time and it has a lower heat tolerance before it starts to soften. But maybe it would work well enough here. If you try it, leave a comment after some time…I'd be curious to hear how it turns out. 0.2mm layer height 0.4mm nozzle 3 walls 4 top layers 3 bottom layers 10% Cross Hatch infill Printing in ABS the “Face plate” did tend to warp on me, so I did have to resort to using a brim. Assembly Insert the 4 Heatset inserts into the back of the “Face Plate” 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Insert the M5 washers into the wide slots nearest the 2 sides. Note: There is a bump in the channel that will keep the washers from falling out during assembly, so you may need to use a tool to push it all the way down. Drop the M5 bolts into the slot right next to the M5 washers. The head of bolt is intended to push against the washer to help distribute the pressure. Using the M3 bolts attach the rear plate to the to the “Face Plate”. Tension blocks If using the EVA foam, now would be the time to attach that to one side of the each tension block and trim it to size. Insert the M5 nut into the slot in the tension block. Hold the tension block into its home and then using the holes on the 2 sides of the the mount, tighten the M5 bolt until the tension block is flush or below the surface of the remaining part. Note: While probably not critical, I put the thicker side of the tension block facing the PC. Slide the PC in from the rear and align it how you prefer in the front. Note: Sometimes the rubber feet on the PC's can get in the way, so it may take a little bending to get around them. Then using those 2 holes on the sides turn the M5 bolts counter-clockwise, which will push the tension blocks into the PC to hold it firmly in place. It doesn't need to be super tight. Just tight enough that the PC doesn't slide around if you shake it. Note: I would highly suggest only tightening the tension blocks as long as the rear plate is attached. The rear plate helps to fight against those long mount pieces from breaking along the layer lines. And always loosen the tension blocks before removing the rear plate (if you ever need to remove it). 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Source The OnShape source files for this may be found here . You should be able use the “Configuration” panel to switch between the different variants and other parameters. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media Changelog v2.0 I've found the previously intended cable position to not work super well. It was too tight when sliding into the rack that I had to run my cable in the corner to get it to barely fit. In this version, i've clipped the corners and added cable tie spots on the corners, which seems to work better. The change does require both the new front/main body and rear plate (because the screw positions of the rear plate needed to change). The tension block was un-changed and can be re-used. Assembly of the tension mechanism is the same as previous versions. CAD Model 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media v1.1 Extended the arms by 5mm AND added a recess giving more room for the cables plugged into the keystone jacks. CAD Model 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media v1 This design is very new. After publishing I realized in all the other testing I had done I had never tested plugging anything into the backside of the keystone jack. There is not a ton of space there. I think it will work with the slim ethernet cables as shown here, but I suspect HDMI keystones will have an issue. I need to get some so I can verify. 📷 Image redacted — claim this model to add your own media