Traxxas 1/16 E-revo/Summit Complete Chassis Conversion V1

Complete chassis conversion for Traxxas 1/16 vehicles. Mounts a standard size servo (40x20 mm) and lowers the motor in the chassis to lower the COG. Fits 36x50 mm motors (540 size, 1410 size). Also has a large front bumper and wheelie bar. Similar to the chassis conversion added as a remix here, but keeps the stock wheelbase. The longer wheelbase would make the car more stable and less wheelie-prone, but part of the fun of these cars is the small size - it's meant to be a mini basher after all. This conversion is also designed for off-road purpose as opposed the sedan-style of that conversion. This is why my conversion is not skeletonized. The holes would allow rocks and dirt to get kicked up inside the car. My design is a lot tighter fit together since there's less space to use, but it makes a lot of dramatic improvements over the stock layout. Most of the parts can be 3D printed. The current plan is to get the chassis plates and motor mount for the final build CNC machined, so I included STP files for those. They are all 2 mm thick. You could use carbon fiber or aluminum for the main plate. The front/rear plates have bends so they would probably need to be made from 5052 aluminum. You can 3d print the entire model from PLA and it'll work (I'm using PLA for the prototype), but I recommend nylon (PA). Maybe use something even more impact resistant like PC for the bumpers. You'll need some hardware to assemble it, but it's all cheap. You'll need a few 25 mm aluminum standoffs that are threaded on both ends. You'll also need some m2.5 and m3 screws. The screws on the underside of the chassis should be countersunk so they don't get beat up by rocks, but I didn't have any, so I just used button heads for now. The longest one you'll need is 35 mm for the transmission, which threads in from under the car. You'll also need a standard servo of course, and the big block motor mount if you're converting the VXL version of the car. You can find the motor mount (which is from the brushed version of the vehicle which has a 540 brushed motor) cheaply on ebay. Any 1/10 ESC should fit. The prototype in the pictures actually has a 1/8 ESC. It's a very old hobbywing 150A ESC since I already had it. Just use double-sided tape to stick the ESC and receiver on to the electronics mount. The battery is held in with some velcro straps that I added slots in the chassis for. The total chassis length is 147 mm; the usable battery footprint is probably about 140x38mm. One potential downside depending on what batteries you already have is that you can only fit one, but the available space is much larger than a single battery tray on the original. However, I'm confident you could just velcro 2 of the batteries that fit in the original on top of each other if you wanted to because you already have them; there is a ton of usable height. Standard 5000 mAh batteries are too long (those are probably too large and heavy for this anyways), but shorty batteries might fit, and I know 3300 mAh 3s lipos will fit. For the prototype I'm just using a 2200 mAh 2s and it works. This car is much lighter than the cars 1/10 motor systems are designed for, so you can get away with running a bit smaller battery like 3300 or 2200 mAh without discharging them too hard. I included all my CAD files with this project. I'm using Solid Edge (I'm weird) but you can import these into Solidworks (like a normal person) and make changes much more easily than modifying STL files. Some of the parts are optional. The body posts are optional - you can just use the stock ones. Mine are made for the Summit, and I like to mount my body as low as I can, so I included the ones I made for that reason. Another optional part is the long travel rear rockers. The ones not labeled long travel are the same as the stock erevo rockers (the p2 rockers). So are the fronts. I actually prefer to run long travel in the rear and normal p2 in the front, so I included the long travel rears. My truck squats a lot under power so raising the rear combats it a bit and helps the front wheels bite. Full size off-road race trucks like trophy trucks are also set-up similarly, with more travel in the rear and a bit of positive chassis rake. The servo spacer is also optional. My servo tabs weren't flat, they had plastic protrusions which interfered with the flat chassis plate, so I just made those as a fix to make it work. If yours is the same, print 2 and use one under each tab. For future revisions, I'll probably just add those to the chassis plate to make it cleaner. The steering arm is also optional - the stock one should fit, but I don't have one that isn't broken. Mine omits the servo saver but the servo is so huge and has metal gears so it should be fine. I need to test more to find out. The servo horn is also optional if your servo includes a horn thats short enough. Mine did not, so I made one. All of the servo arms/horns for standard servos are too big for this car. It fits very tightly because I made the opening undersize. When I made it the correct size, the 3d print didn't hold up and it rounded out. Just use the servo screw to put it on, it'll compress the plastic slightly so it grips the horn tightly. I haven't broken it yet doing it this way. I added the front body post as a remix, since mine is very similar, and I also added the motor mount plate as a remix for the same reason. My motor mount plate includes a spur gear cover. I recommend considering which direction the parts are loaded when deciding which way to place them on the build plate. For example, the main chassis plate is mostly facing bending force across it, so you can print it flat on the build plate since the XY plane (the strongest plane on 3d printers) will align with that. As a less obvious example, the bumpers mainly face forces bending the bumper closer to the chassis, which runs through them, so it's actually better to print them sideways on the build plate. Otherwise, the Z axis will run across them, and the forces will be against the z axis and it'll more test your layer adhesion vs the strength of the material. This is still an ongoing project as I try to optimize this platform as much as possible, but I removed the WIP marking because this conversion works as-is. I'll post future versions as a separate project with a different version number.