Triple Z for Ender 3 NG (beta)
by Agwood · via Printables
| Format | STL |
| Category | Art |
| License | CC BY-NC-SA |
| Triangles | 7.3k |
| Uploaded | May 21, 2024 |
⬇ 98 downloads
❤ 21 likes
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Description
Here is my take on a triple Z axis for the Ender 3 NG (Beta). To be honest I am verry happy with the performance I am getting on my NG with a Voron CNC Tap setup I am seeing .008 variation. Note - This is a commitment as it is a departure from the original NG Z axis and requires a few bespoke parts, they can all be used without the triple Z but must be used in order to use the included triple Z design. So a few notes I wanted to make a triple Z work without using linear rails, perhaps the NG design will change in the future but for now the original vision for the NG uses 12mm linear rods for the front Z supports. I added additional 8mm just to stop lateral movement of the Z carriage arms so there is very little load on them. I leaned heavily on the Voron Trident for the basis of the Z carriage arms and uses the same GE5C bearings as the Trident. Use the Voron trident manual for screws and screw lengths. Some of the pictures show the early design for the Z carriage arms that were just not rigid or stable enough, the included arms are my current iteration and work much better. The under bed 2020 extrusions measure 205mm front to back (I cut my own your mileage may vary) and 345 on the X dimension (left to right). I connected these with M5 90 degree angles. Front 8mm rods are 300mm rear are 325. Understand this has been tested by me and only me and I love how it works but I cannot guarantee anything on your end. I use Polymaker or Paramount filament so pretty rigid. I would not recommend Esun ABS + as it has shown in my past experience to be pretty darn weak. Front left and right Z carriage arms use M5 and M3 heatsets in the arm to connect the cap. I would NOT recommend using Drylin/IGUS bearings as they deflect too much and are either too loose or bind like crazy. For the bed, I rotated my stock Ender 3 bed and drilled and countersunk a new hole for the rear. I drilled it in the section that does not have heating traces. While not the flattest it works great until I am ready to order my 235 cast 3 point bed (mandella or Precision)
Originally published on Printables