Vapian's QiDi Q2 / Q2C Top Spool Holder, V2 3D model thumbnail

Vapian's QiDi Q2 / Q2C Top Spool Holder, V2

by Vapian · via Thingiverse
FormatSTEP
CategoryGadgets
LicenseCC BY-NC-SA
UploadedMar 3, 2026
⬇ 108 downloads ❤ 5 likes 👁 460 views

Description

UPDATE: Still leaving as Work in Progress, but added two updated parts. Vapian's Q2 Top Spool Holder - V2 - 120mm Extension with Splitter V2.1.step Vapian's Q2 Top Spool Holder - V2 - 50mm Extension-Latch & Branching V2.1.step The first file is an updated first extension piece with built-in Y-Splitter. The splitter's path has been made shorter and less complex internally, and no longer requires inserting short bits of PTFE tube to smooth the way. It remains beneficial to print at least this part from something more certain to be slick after printing, like ABS or PTFE. Variable Height and Smoothing in the slicer might also help to reduce the steps between layers. The Trick Part of this piece is that the two M4x6 Bowden fittings at the inputs of the splitter are now recessed and a bit more difficult to install by hand. A pair of small needle nose pliers or a thin-walled socket wrench might be helpful to get those firmly in place. Using heat and a spreader on the output PTFE tube to flare the input end of that tube just slightly can help prevent catching on the teeth of the output fitting. The second and most awkwardly-named file is for the piece intended to sit just on top of the first extension. This is intended more for the Max 4 printer, and does not have the "latching" part used on the Q2, even though it can still be used on the Q2. It also has a small cutout on the side support piece that provides some extra clearance for PTFE fittings below it. Further updates may happen after I take some more time to review everything and see if any other improvements are needed. I suspect there will be another version or two of the Spool Mounts with Filament Guide to cover a couple of corner cases. NOTE: Updated status to Work In Progress. Somewhere else, someone said something that led me to reexamine the Extension with Splitter, and update the design to make the paths shorter and more simple internally, eliminating the need for PTFE inserts and improving reliability. Project will be updated after the updated parts are verified and uploaded. Will also be making a couple of small changes that will make this compatible with the QiDi Max 4. My Top Spool Holder for QiDi Q2 / Q2C (and maybe others), Version 2! The original was one of my first designs and arguably "good enough" -- assuming your setup didn't have a lot of things in the way straight up from the spool mount. But it wasn't without issues. So, I've made a few updates! Hopefully improvements. Maybe Turned to the Left a Bit? It won't be perfect for everyone's setup, but it might be useful to you. This version mounts to the chassis in the same way, but has an Extension with Y-Splitter pillar and leaves some space to the top for other configuration options. The Y-Splitter, if used, accepts filament from the QiDi Box Hub/buffer or the external spool. You don't have to use it, but it's there if you want it. From there, you can build straight up from the back and over the printer just like the old version, using as many Extension pillars or angle parts as you want. Orrrr.... Optionally (but recommended), there's a new part (that I don't know what to call) that sits near the top, and snaps into that weird hole / slot in the back to help keep the holder from tilting. It has an opening up top for the PTFE tube from the Splitter to the extruder (if used), and hugs the side of the printer. This part has two slots for mounting Extension pillars facing either the side, or the front, depending on how you want the spool oriented. Included Extension pillars are 80mm, 100mm, 120mm, and 140mm, and can be combined for any desired height or length. There are two versions of 45-degree offset pillars for a 45 or 90 degree change in direction. All can be combined as needed for the desired height, angle, length, and ultimately placement of the spool. Straight pillars and one of the 45-degree versions have one or more fittings for the QiDi stock spool spindle (or equivalent). If not needed on a given Extension, there's an optional plug to fill that hole that will stay in place when another Extension or Retainer is connected. These plugs are intentionally loose but could be scaled larger if you want a snug fit. With your desired QiDi-compatible spool spindle or alternative inserted in the desired Extension pillar, the end is terminated with either a simple cap, or one with an integrated filament guide for the QiDi stock bowden filament thingy. The guide pin insert that holds that piece can be partially or fully inserted for desired position relative to the width of the spool. The pin can be scaled in the slicer to be longer if needed. Once printed with proper fitment of the Mount Body Pins to the Extensions, you can use whichever parts you need to customize your spool holder as high, angled, or far out from the printer as needed to work with your equipment setup and surroundings. Going further, you could design new parts for this to hold anything else you might want, like additional spools, a camera, or generic hangers or holders for just about anything that you want to keep handy. Some Notes About Some Things: The included 3MF file has recommended print settings and support configurations, including some support blockers on two parts so as not to waste time or filament. You don't have to use that, but it's there. -- The 3MF has two plates for the Spool Mount Retainer with Filament Guides -- one to Print by Object, another to Print by Layer. If your printer is big enough, the Print by Object plate is recommended to help with the strength of the pillar insert on the filament guides. The 120mm Extension with Splitter can be tricky to print so filament flows through smoothly. Tolerances for threads and bore holes matter. I recommend printing this part with something likely to be "slick", like PETG or ABS. Others will work but may need some tricky maneuvers to clean and smooth the bore holes. Creative use of roughly filament-sized hanger wire or steel cable may be useful to ensure the bore hole paths are smooth. The rest of the parts can be printed in anything you have handy. The Splitter (if used) needs some short lengths of 4mm OD / 2.5mm ID PTFE tube inserted in each opening. Exactly how long is worth experimenting with. I recommend long enough to be FULLY seated into each opening, cut so that when inserted, they come just barely to the threads for the connectors. It may help to heat and gently flare each end of the insert tubes for smoother entry. Check performance by manually running a length of filament through each input to output to make sure filament can be pushed through. The Splitter (if used) needs three 4mm x M6 threaded bowden connectors screwed in after the PTFE inserts are seated. If you have trouble screwing them in, the issue is likely either quality of the threads, or the inserts are too long. Between the Hub and the Y-Splitter, the PTFE tube can't just be straight and short. The Hub's buffer needs to be able to move back and forth freely to report filamanet feed status to the Box and printer. See the pictures for the loop I used to address this. Note that if this loop is too short, the buffer might not move well and/or the radius may create too much friction. Conversely, if the loop is too long, the path length to the extruder may be too long to load without generating an error. Play with the length to tune it. If your Hub is in a different position than mine, you may not need to do anything different than you are now. Getting the Chassis Spool Mount, first Extension pillar, and the funky new piece together, on the printer, and clipped into the weird hole in the back can be a little complicated, as they all have to line up just right. I recommend assembling those pieces together first, sliding the Chassis Spool Mount down into the chassis mount just a little until the clip can be pushed in at the top, then fully seat everything. Just reading this may not make much sense, but you'll see what I mean when you try it. The fit of the Extension pillars and Body Pins can vary based on your printer, settings, and filament. They need to be tight to prevent wobbly connections, especially for long or tall configurations. They can be tight enough to need force if you're sure of your configuration, but you may want them a little loose if you think you will want to take it apart later. -- Before printing the whole thing, recommend printing a single Mount Body Pin and the basic 120mm Extension with Spool Mount, and test the fit in both ends of the pillar. Reprint the Body Pin up or down in Scale using the slicer until happy with it. Once that Scale factor is known, there are four parts that, if used, should be printed at that scale: --- Mount Body Pins, AND --- Spool Mount Retainer (if you don't need or want the one with a Filament Guide), OR --- Spool Mount Retainer with Filament Guide (Recommended if using the QiDi stock bowden tube guide), AND --- Filament Guide Pin (only if using the Spool Mount Retainer with Filament Guide, so it fits properly in the scaled version of that part).
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Originally published on Thingiverse