Voron stealthburner redesign

Based on the Voron Stealthburner toolhead design by Voron Design. Original project: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner To preface — if the description sounds all over the place or incomplete, that's because it is. I built this toolhead over a year ago and am only uploading the project now that I know it works. I designed it as a toolhead replacement for my already heavily modified Ender 3 Max Neo, which I haven't modified since. Attached screenshots from AliExpress show the exact hardware I used for this project. This project is my major redesign of the Voron Stealthburner toolhead. Here is a brief overview of the changes/additions I made: Compatibility with cheap but decent hotend — TriangleLab CHC Pro Volcano Nozzle camera integrated in a compact way into the front cover EDDY Duo magnetic induction probe support 30mm extruder fan shroud Tidy umbilical cord mount Noctua 4010 hotend fan All mounted on a light and smooth MGN9H linear rail Designed to work with Galileo 2 extruder Most included STLs are tight fits which may or may not require some heat gun persuasion or filing to fit together perfectly. I recommend printing the most heat-exposed parts with PC-TG (polycarbonate + PETG) filament, as this plastic blend softens at around 110–120°C, which is significantly higher than ABS/ASA (but requires an enclosure, a 300°C nozzle, and a 100°C bed). The carriage: It's in two halves that need to be bolted together using ~45mm M3 screws. Remaining holes need to have M3 threaded inserts added, similar to where they are in the stock EDDY carriage mount. Threaded inserts must also be added to the belt holders, then secured in place using ~15mm M3 screws. The EDDY Duo must then be secured using screws and nuts, then shimmed so that it's parallel to the build plate and at the correct height relative to the nozzle. Place the carriage into the final position on the X gantry, secure the belts, then slide the MGN9H slider under the carriage and screw it in using 4 M3 screws. If the small tabs that the belt rests on are rubbing against the V-slot channel of the 20×20 extrusion, they can be trimmed with flush cutters or a file until the carriage slides smoothly. That's the carriage done. Most other parts are assembled the same way as the stock Stealthburner with Galileo 2. The hotend assembly: The hotend assembly might need a small blast with a heat gun to nicely wrap around the CHC hotend. A small dab of superglue around the top aluminium "neck" is enough to keep it from rotating when adjusting the nozzle. The extruder fan: It's an optional accessory mounted on the ends of the screws that hold the pancake extruder motor in place. A 24V 3010 fan provides constant cooling to the extruder motor, which allows you to increase hold current (preventing missed steps at high print speeds) and also prevents the issue where the hot extruder motor heats the entire extruder and softens plastic in the cold zone, potentially leading to grinding and clogging. The fan is secured using two small self-tapping screws. I do not recommend buying these cheap fans from AliExpress — I had two of them fail for no clear reason. Buy branded ones instead (one of mine died literally a week ago, which is why it's missing in the picture). Umbilical cord mount: It's a much better alternative to drag chains. The bundle of cables running in a braided sleeve is secured using two zip ties on the umbilical cord mount. Front cover and nozzle camera: The front cover houses the nozzle camera. If you don't want it, you can still print this version and simply not install the camera parts, or just use the LED flood light feature, which is useful on its own. Two floodlight LEDs must be installed the same way as in the Voron manual. Their mini step-down converter (for controlling brightness) can be placed in the empty space above the camera mount. The camera motherboard must be secured to the hotend cooling fan using small zip ties or twist ties so that it does not block the fan blades. It partially obstructs airflow to the hotend but is also cooled by the fan, which is important, as these mini cameras do not tolerate heat well and start dropping FPS when overheating. The ribbon cable must then be folded so that the camera sits in its mounting position (see pictures), with a small snag to prevent shifting when tightening the cover. There are many tutorials on YouTube regarding securing and focusing similar camera modules. This is the riskiest part — the camera and micro lenses are extremely fragile. You can crack the lens assembly while attempting to focus, permanently fog the lens using CA glue fumes, separate the lens housing from the sensor PCB, or even crack the PCB. In short — if it's your first time, expect to damage at least one camera. When the focus is correct and the nozzle is centered in frame, carefully secure the camera with a small dab of CA glue, but do not use too much — the fumes can damage the lens. I personally struggled with getting a stable signal from the camera, as signal integrity became surprisingly problematic. Noise from the toolhead PCB interfered with the USB signal. I solved this by connecting the camera through a USB signal amplifier to a Raspberry Pi and shielding the cable using Kapton tape and aluminium foil soldered to ground. Yes — it made a huge difference. Removing shielding caused signal loss, and without the amplifier there were heavy artifacts in the video feed. I recommend simply using a properly shielded aftermarket USB cable. The camera and LEDs still work after a year of regular use. The camera does require occasional wiping with a damp cloth to remove white polymer fume residue. At very high bed temperatures (90°C+), the camera drops to around 5–10 FPS, but the feed remains legible. *Please make sure you buy the FF (fixed focus) camera and not the auto focus version as these modules obviously cannot me manually adjusted to focus on a nozzle ~3cm away *The camera FOV might be confusing so: The camera im using is a 75 degree version which is a nice middle ground between a wide and very dynamic view (eg. 120 degrees) and narrow and more static view (30-60 degrees) the key difference is that the narrow FOV camera shows a cool looking macro shot of a large nozzle which fills the frame and shows the satisfying behaviour of molten plastic at this scale. The downside is that this view isn't very informative regarding the print tuning and troubleshooting as you cant see much besides the nozzle, the wide FOV camera's feed looks really cool when the toolhead is printing at high speed but the nozzle looks tiny in frame, almost 'zoomed out' . It does allow you to see the most of the print area which is helpful for tracking down problematic print settings. The wide FOV camera is also easier to aim and focus at the nozzle, it also has a wider depth of field so that the entire print area is roughly focused and not completely blurred. Link to Nozzle cam demo https://youtu.be/DjTHvDEE9Wk?si=9-Axp0AbggK-DUHW